As usual at Brioni, it was all about playing out well at staging a flurry of refinement that will stand the test of time. That’s what the Italian luxury menswear house is perpetuating with this collection’s spirit speaking the language of a more traditional dressing. The Brioni Fall/Winter 2018 wardrobe is made for taste savvy connoisseurs of culture who come to the brand for the lush vibe and stories embodied by clothing of uttermost quality and luxurious comfort. The black tuxedo is presented as a double breast in a deep brown nuance, the three-piece suit engages in understated pattern variations, the typical nylon puffer undercoat is realized in light leather, and the original lambswool felt of a navy blue peacoat has been substituted by cashmere. Attempts to introduce more casual and fashion-forward designs are channeled through such combinations as a classic suit styled with Western boots, or a crocodile jacket hidden underneath a coat. The spirit of the venerable Italian menswear brand’s collection, namely the choice to focus on a timeless wardrobe, may gain increasing relevance within an industry challenged by the damages of disposable fashion.
Written by Stéphanie Bui.